Here are some things that I wish that I knew when planning for this hike:
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You need permits to hike across the borders. These guys run a service to help you here.
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It sounds silly now, but being a circuit, you don’t need to start in Theth. Whilst it is most common, you can start in many other places, particularly Peja in Kosovo or Plav in Montenegro.
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The same goes for the way you go around the circuit. Most common is anticlockwise, however you can complete this hike walking clockwise as well if you want.
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You don’t need to do the whole circuit. There are many places that you can cut across to a village on the other side. So, if you are short in time or a part of this hike does not interest you, then you can simply skip a section. Common places to cur across include:
- Valbone to Vusanje. This can make for a nice 3 day hike instead of the 10.
- Dobërdoll to Babino Polje. This will cut out the Kosovo part of the trek.
- Milishevc to Drelaj. This will skip the Rekë e Allagës day.
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There are plenty of homestays at each stop and most have towels, bedding and blankets. You can skip the large towel for a small microfibre one in case of emergencies.
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The homestays all generally cater for vegetarian food so if you are a vegetarian there is no need to stress. However, the food is often heavy on cheese and bread, so if you are a vegan or have a gluten intolerance then your options will be a little more limited.
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Camping along the trail is also very common. If you are a camper, then you can still eat at the homestays so you can save a little weight in food. Note that screw top gas canisters are difficult to get your hands on. There was some in Plav but that was about it.
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The homestays feed you well and will make you a pack lunch each day, so unless you are camping you only need to bring snacks.
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There are only two places to top up on snacks, Theth and Plav. The homestays feed you very well, however if you’re like me get hungry on the trail, make sure to bring enough snacks.
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Plav is the only place where you can withdraw money so make sure you get it before you enter the mountains. Everyone accepts Euros which makes it easy. Also make sure you bring plenty spare in case of emergencies. You could end up stuck in one place for a few days if the weather turns, or you may need to arrange transportation out if the worst should happen.